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When assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. However, tucked prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the family completely surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.